Lesson 24: Choosing a Spot for Your Hives

Sun, shelter, water, food, and room for you to work

Honey bees can be kept almost anywhere there are flowers that produce nectar and pollen. But where you put the hive on your property makes a real difference to the bees' health, to your neighbors (lesson 3), and to how easy the hives are to work. Pick the spot before your bees arrive. Moving a colony later is a lot of work.

A good site has to suit three parties: the bees, you, and your neighbors.

What the bees need

Food nearby. Plenty of flowering plants and trees within the bees' range, blooming across the season. The more diverse the flowers, the better.

Water. A reliable source close to the hive (lesson 51). If there isn't one, you'll provide it.

Sunlight, and some thought about shade. Sources differ here: - The UGA Bee Program recommends a site in full sun, and the University of Arkansas course notes bright afternoon sun helps deter small hive beetles. - Other guides recommend morning sun with some afternoon shade, particularly where summers are very hot. - Almost all agree on morning sun: an entrance facing the early sun gets the bees flying early and warms the hive.

Your Seasonal Guide and local beekeepers can tell you what works best in your climate.

Shelter from wind. A fence, hedge, trees or a building on the windward side protects hives from cold winter winds, while still letting air move around the hive so moisture doesn't build up inside.

Dry ground, not low ground. Avoid low spots, where cold, damp air settles in winter, and avoid areas that flood. Damp sites encourage mold and disease.

Off the ground and tilted slightly forward. Put the hive on a stand (lesson 17) and tilt it slightly forward so rainwater runs out of the entrance instead of pooling inside.

What you need

Easy access. You'll carry heavy boxes, feed, and eventually honey supers to and from the hive, sometimes in bad weather. Pick a spot you can reach easily, even with a loaded cart or vehicle.

Room to work. Leave space behind or beside each hive to stand while you work, and a place to set boxes down. Work from the side or back, not in front of the entrance.

Easy upkeep. You'll need to keep grass and weeds down around the hives. Tall grass at the entrance slows the bees and hides pests.

Permission. If the land isn't yours, get the owner's permission first.

What your neighbors (and animals) need

• Keep hives away from property lines, sidewalks, playgrounds and public areas, and use a fence or hedge so bees fly up and over (lesson 3).
• Keep hives away from penned animals and their water, where bees and animals can bother each other.
• Choose a quiet spot away from constant noise and vibration (roads, machinery, busy play areas), which stresses bees and makes them more defensive.
• In some areas you may need a fence against bears or other large animals (lesson 66).

Things to avoid

• Low, damp spots and flood-prone ground
• No water nearby (unless you'll supply it)
• Right next to paths, pools, playgrounds or property lines
• Close to penned animals
• Piles of old, unused hive equipment, which attract pests and robbing
• Areas with heavy pesticide use nearby, if you can avoid it (lesson 68)
• Spots you can't easily reach

A quick site checklist

• [ ] Flowers and water within reach
• [ ] Morning sun on the entrance; shade decision made for your climate
• [ ] Sheltered from strong wind, but with airflow
• [ ] Dry, well-drained ground; not a low spot
• [ ] Hive stand ready; hive tilted slightly forward
• [ ] Flight path away from people; barrier if needed
• [ ] Easy for you to reach and work around
• [ ] Permission and local rules checked (lessons 3–4)

What to remember

• A good site suits the bees, you and your neighbors.
• Bees need food, water, morning sun, wind shelter and dry ground.
• You need easy access and room to work; neighbors need flight paths above head height.
• Sources differ on full sun vs. afternoon shade, so ask what works in your area.

Quick check

1. Why avoid putting hives in a low spot in the yard?
2. Why tilt the hive slightly forward?
3. Should you work a hive from the front or from the side and back?

Show answers

1. Cold, damp air settles there in winter, and low ground can flood. 2. So rainwater runs out the entrance instead of pooling inside. 3. From the side or back, out of the bees' flight path.

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Adapted from: UGA Bee Program, Getting Started: Preparing to Keep Bees; Delaplane, K. S., Honey Bees and Beekeeping (UGA Extension Bulletin 1045, rev. 2017); University of Arkansas, Complete Beekeeping Short Course, Part 5; UF/IFAS Extension, Welcome to the Apiary! (4H446); Utah State University Extension, Thriving Hives: The Apiary (2024); Mississippi State University Extension, Beginning Beekeeping in Mississippi (P3594); Montana State University Extension, Housing Honey Bees.

Adapted from university Extension sources. Experienced Georgia beekeepers are reviewing these lessons. See something that doesn't match your experience? Tell us.