Chapter 10 ยท Lesson 78 of 87

Lesson 78: Making Splits

Turning one colony into two: more colonies, less swarming, and spare queens

A split (also called a divide or making a nuc) means taking bees, brood and food from a strong colony to start a new one. It's the cheapest way to increase your number of colonies, one of the best ways to reduce swarming (lesson 48), and a way to keep spare queens and bees on hand for emergencies.

Why split

The trade-off: a split colony puts effort into rebuilding, so it makes less honey that season. Splitting too close to the main flow can cost you your crop.

When to split

Getting the new colony a queen

One of the two halves will be queenless after a split. You can:

  1. Buy a mated queen and introduce her (lesson 46). Fastest: the new colony starts laying in days. In areas where Africanized bees are present, always use a purchased queen of European stock rather than letting the colony raise its own (lesson 16).
  2. Let the queenless half raise its own queen. It must have eggs or very young larvae to make queen cells from (lesson 13). Cheaper, but slower:
  3. the bees build queen cells, and a queen emerges in about 1โ€“2 weeks;
  4. she mates in the following week or two, then starts laying;
  5. all told, 5โ€“6 weeks pass before her first workers emerge, and the colony shrinks meanwhile.
  6. Queenless splits often build many queen cells (10 or more). About a week after splitting, some beekeepers remove all but the 2โ€“3 best cells; leaving many can cause the split to swarm when multiple queens emerge.
  7. Give it a ripe queen cell from another colony (lesson 79).

How to make a basic split (a five-frame nuc)

  1. Find the queen in the parent colony and set her frame aside safely (lesson 36).
  2. Into an empty nuc box (or a full hive body), put:
  3. one frame with eggs and young larvae (needed if the split will raise its own queen);
  4. one frame of capped brood, which will emerge soon and boost the population;
  5. one or two frames of honey and pollen (food);
  6. empty comb or foundation to fill the box.
  7. Shake in bees from one or two extra brood frames (with no queen on them; check!). Young nurse bees stay with the brood.
  8. Return the queen (on her frame) to the parent colony and fill its gaps with empty comb or foundation.
  9. Decide where the split goes:
  10. Another apiary, at least a couple of miles away (a mile or more at minimum): its foragers can't drift home, so it keeps its bees. Best for a queenless split raising its own queen.
  11. The same apiary: older bees will fly back to the parent hive, so give the split extra bees (and extra capped brood), and reduce its entrance.
  12. Feed both colonies 1:1 syrup unless there's a strong flow, especially if they're drawing foundation.
  13. Check in about a week for queen cells (queenless split) or queen acceptance (introduced queen), and again 3โ€“4 weeks later for a laying queen (eggs).

Other ways to split: - Even ("walk-away") split: divide the brood, bees and food into two roughly equal halves; one keeps the queen, the other raises a queen. Simple, but both halves are weaker. - Split by boxes: in a two-box colony, simply separate the boxes, making sure each has eggs, brood and food; find which one has the queen (the one with new eggs in a few days).

If you have only a few colonies, a queenless split raising its own queen may mate with related drones from your own hives. Some beekeepers move the split to another beekeeper's apiary (with permission, and after checking that colonies are healthy) until the new queen is mated.

Nucs need extra care

What to remember

Quick check

  1. Why must a queenless split have a frame of eggs or very young larvae?
  2. About how long before a split that raises its own queen has new workers emerging?
  3. Why add extra bees to a split that stays in the same apiary?
Show answers

1. The bees can only raise a new queen from eggs or very young larvae. 2. About 5โ€“6 weeks. 3. Older foragers fly back to the parent hive's location, so the split loses bees.


Adapted from: UF/IFAS Extension, Using Nucs in Beekeeping Operations (IN869); Purdue Extension, Advanced Beekeeping (4-H-1059); Delaplane, Honey Bees and Beekeeping (UGA Bulletin 1045, rev. 2017); UF/IFAS Extension, Swarm Control for Managed Beehives (IN970, 2022).

Adapted from university Extension sources. Experienced Georgia beekeepers are reviewing these lessons. See something that doesn't match your experience? Tell us.